Tinghir and Todra valley.

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Todra Gorge: a paradise for climbers

With the opening of the classic route of the West Pillar in 1977 by a group of French climbers began developing this sport in the Todra Gorge. Four decades later, the number of routes exceeds three hundred fifty and activity continues to increase.

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The Todra Gorges.

Climbing in the Todra Gorges.

Climbing in the Todra Gorges.

Climbing in the Todra Gorges.

Climbing in the Todra Gorges.

The rock

The rock of Todra Gorge is an ocher calcite very hard, rugged, compact and abrasive. The quality of this rock, added to the scenery of the entourage, attracted a growing number of climbers from around the world during the last four decades.

The difficulty

One way of degree 3 is located in the north edge. The rest is from 5+ to 8b, but most ways are VI and VII. Their length is between 25 meters and 300 meters.

The seasons

In the Todra Gorges you can climb all the year, just you may choose the most suitable area in each season. These that are inside the big gorge aren't recommended in winter but very pleasant in summer. For winter, the morning is preferable the area at the entrance to the gorge or the cliff on the right bank after the release of the big gorge; in the afternoon, the cliff in the left bank of the same area is more sunny.

The areas

Nearly thirty areas are distributed along 2 km between El Mansour hotel and the Small Gorge; after it, we find still a few others a little further. These are the most important:

Climbing in the Todra Gorges
Climbing in the Todra Gorges, El Mansour Beach.

El Mansour Beach

This area is opposite to El Mansour Hotel. Facing the southeast, it is sunny in the morning and has a beautiful view of the palm-grove. The height of the cliff is 240 m. There are short and long routes. Some of them leave in the river. The descent is...

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Climbing in the Todra Gorges.

Aiguille du gué (Ford needle)

Needle of 80 m situated behind El Mansour Hotel, in the west bank. Beautiful views are obtained of the gorges and the palm-grove. Descent by rappel or...

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Climbing in the Todra Gorges.

Pilier du Couchant

Visible from afar, this pillar is just after the ford, on the other side of the river. It is oriented towards the west and often not sunny. The routes are long and very interesting, with...

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Climbing in the Todra Gorges.

Dalle des Hollandais

Area found shortly before arriving at Les Roches Hotel, with long routes. The rock is very hard and there is no sun. A rope of 60 meters is required. There tourist buses presence cause some troubles, such as...See the topos

Climbing in the Todra Gorges.

Satanic area

This is the last area found before reaching Les Roches hotel. Facing west, it is not sunny. Descend by...

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Climbing in the Todra Gorges.

Meuk area, right bank

Area located in the narrowest point of the gorge, near the cave. It is also called Gorges Exit. It is very cold. Existing routes are old, but there is still the possibility of..

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Climbing in the Todra Gorges.

Meuk area, west bank

Area located in the narrowest point of the gorge, around the house of the generator. Facing west, it is all the day in the shade and extremely cold because of the air flow. This is where the first 8a in Africa was...

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Climbing in the Todra Gorges.

The gardens

Area located at the exit of the gorge, on the fields of alfalfa and wheat with some palm trees. It is sunny. A rope of 45 m is necessary for...

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Climbing in the Todra Gorges.

Corridor n'Aït Ba Ali or Van Gülich area

The corridor n'Aït Ba Ali, also known as Van Gülich area, is situated opposite the exit of the gorge, at left. It is very high and sunny in the morning. You get a nice view of the gorges. There are still possibilities to...

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Climbing in the Todra Gorges.

The white trail

This ocher wall is characterized by a clearly visible white trail. Facing southwest, it is very high and it has a lot of sun. Twenty new routes...

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Climbing in the Todra Gorges.

The Sacred Fishes wall

This great wall is very high, located on the point where the road cross the river. It can be reached by an approximation track. The routes are quite long and difficult. It faces south-east, with lots of sun. This is one of the most famous...

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Climbing in the Todra Gorges.

Totxo Tiana

This is a stone block at the foot of the Sacred Fish wall, not far from the point where the road crosses the ravine. Facing south-east, it is...

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Climbing in the Todra Gorges.

The Chaos

It is a small block of stone at the foot of the Sacred Fish wall. It is located just at the edge of the ravine after the ford. It is ideal for...

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Climbing in the Todra Gorges.

The Small Gorge, right bank

Area located 2 km far from the hotels, where the road crosses again the river. It is known by the locals with the name of Amarsit. There are routes for all levels, some of them...

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Climbing in the Todra Gorges.

The Small Gorge, west bank

Area situated 2 km far from the hotels, next to the road, just before crossing the ravine. There are routes for all levels. It is one of the most popular areas today for...

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